Hi, welcome to my blog! Here you can follow my inspirations and new projects as they take shape... Please, take the time to visit my Etsy shop: AkkenaJewelry

Iolite: gem of the Vikings

When Leif Eriksson and the other legendary Viking explorers ventured far out into the Atlantic Ocean, away from any coastline that could help them determine their position, they had a secret gem weapon: iolite. The Viking mariners used thin pieces of it as the world's first polarising filter. Looking through an iolite lens, they were able to determine the exact position of the sun, and navigate their way safely to the New World and back.

Midnight Blue, necklace in silver and iolite
Midnight Blue, hoops earrings in silver and iolite

The property that made iolite so valuable to the Vikings is its extreme pleochroism. Iolite has different colours in different directions in the crystal. A cube cut from iolite will look a more or less violet blue, almost like sapphire, from one side, clear as water from the other, and a honey yellow from on top. In the past, this property led some people to call iolite 'water sapphire', though the name is now obsolete.

In this ring, made in sterling silver and gold, the iolite appears brown from one side, and violet-blue from the top.
Pleochroism may have been helpful in navigation but it certainly makes life difficult for the cutter. If iolite is not cut from exactly the right direction, no matter what the shape of the raw crystal, its colour will not be shown to its best advantage.

The name iolite comes from the Greek 'ion', which means violet. Iolite is usually a purplish blue when cut properly, with a softness to the colour that can be quite attractive.

Iolite is readily available and surprisingly affordable. The richer the blue, the better. It is mined in India, Sri Lanka, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and Brazil. The Vikings probably mined theirs from deposits in Norway and Greenland.

Iolite is relatively hard but should be protected from blows. With its attractive colour and reasonable price, it may become a jewellery staple in the future.

You like iolite jewels? Visit my Etsy shop !

★★★BLACK MONDAY - CYBER FRIDAY PROMOTIONS★★★

FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING EVENT!!!



Hi there!

This weekend only,I am pleased to offer FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING in my Etsy shop!

Valid from Black Friday 11/27 thru Cyber Monday 11/30

*************All items will arrive boxed and ready for gift giving!***************

Mady, my most beautiful jewel!


Hi there! I'm back home, after having given birth to my most beautiful jewel, a little girl called Madelon. She was born on August 19th with 5 weeks beforehand, weighed 2,440 kg and was 43 cms. She is well and grows quickly, and doesn't let a lot of time to her mom to work on the jewelry studio!

New arrival of gemstones

Directly from the lapidary workshop in India! Iolite, aquamarine, moonstone, apatite... but also cornaline, garnet, honey quartz, tourmaline. Now I am going to set to work, to prepare you a lot of attractive jewels!


"Precious Amethyst Blossom", sterling silver earrings

These lovely and lavish "Precious Amethyst Blossom" earrings feature two gorgeous faceted violet amethyst briolettes. Ruby and garnet emphasize the romanticism and the preciosity of these earrings. Flowers and foliages are handmade of sterling silver; I gave them a particular and natural texture by fusing and engraving the silver. They are reminiscent of the beautiful blooms in my little backyard garden. Delicate, dainty, ulra-feminine, these lovely earrings are perfect for any special occasion!

THE AMETHYST : A ROYAL VIOLET... Its colour is as unique as it is seductive, though in fact this gemstone of all gemstones is said to protect its wearer against seduction. The amethyst is extravagance in violet. For many thousands of years, the most striking representative of the quartz family has been a jewel coveted by princes both ecclesiastical and secular. Moses described it as a symbol of the Spirit of God in the official robes of the High Priest of the Jews, and the Russian Empress Catherine the Great sent thousands of miners into the Urals to look for it. In popular belief, the amethyst offers protection against drunkenness - for the Greek words 'amethystos' mean 'not intoxicated' in translation. A more apt stone for the month of February, particularly if there is to be plenty going on in the way of carnival celebrations, could thus hardly be wished for.

One thing that has been known for a long time, on the other hand, is the fact that the amethyst changes its colour on being heated. Smoky stones are transformed at temperatures of as little as 250 degrees to a shining yellow to brownish-red, whilst clear ones, i.e. those with a high degree of transparency, become yellow or colourless at 400 degrees. Now and then Nature gives us a surprise by having created bicoloured stones, like the ones recently found in Bolivia in the form of causticised crystal nuggets. This variety is known as ametrine, for in its formation certain energy states of iron introduce violet areas to the yellow citrine. At best, flat jewellery with a three-spoked star can be cut from it. However, the highlight for esoterics is that the energy fields can in fact be made visible in polarised light. The Henn Brothers of Idar-Oberstein even supply the photos to go with it.Some amethysts pale almost to colourlessness in daylight. The reason for this has not yet been discovered, but it is possible to re-colour them by means of radium radiation. The fact that these stones can lose their colour makes it obvious that amethyst jewellery should not be worn while sunbathing, in a solarium or in a discotheque with black light. Sudden changes of temperature can also be harmful to the stone.

MYTHS AND VERTUES... A large number of further miraculous powers are attributed to the amethyst in all sorts of cultures. It was said to protect crops against tempests and locusts, bring good fortune in war and in the hunt, drive out evil spirits and inspire the intellect. A little study of the works of Pliny will reveal that this gemstone, if worn round the neck on a cord made from dog's hair, affords protection against snakebite. Later, Hieronymus even reported that eagles placed an amethyst in their nest in order to protect their young from the selfsame danger. Apart from these powers, gemstone therapists say that the amethyst has a sobering and cleansing effect. Amethyst has also been said to quell excessive stomach acid and, according to Hildegard von Bingen, served to combat insect bites and beautify the skin. But the amethyst not only had a firm niche in medicine; it was also esteemed as a stone of friendship. And since it was thought to put the wearer in a chaste frame of mind and symbolise trust and piety, the amethyst came to occupy a very prominent position in the ornaments of the Catholic clergy over the centuries. It was the stone of bishops and cardinals; we find it in prelates' crosses and in the so-called Papal Ring (Italian, 15th century) in the Jewellery Museum in Pforzheim.

In ancient times, amethyst was already being engraved and cut into sculptured forms, witness the bust of Trajan which Napoleon captured in Berlin. Amethyst quartz, banded with whitish layers, is particularly good to work with, though it is only ever either translucent or opaque or somewhere in between. In earlier times, people liked to drink wine from amethyst cups, which brings us back to the stone's protective function against alcoholism. According to the ancient Greek saga, Diana turned a nymph whom Bacchus loved into an amethyst; hence the term Bacchus stone. Anyone wishing to protect a drunkard from delirium mixed some pulverised amethyst into the person's drink.


ORIGINES... The deposits with the greatest economic significance are in various states in southern Brazil and in neighbouring Uruguay. The third major export country is Madagascar. However, this gemstone is spread all over the world. Good specimens were found in Aztec graves, though the deposits from which they were extracted are no longer known today. On the Canadian side of Lake Superior in North America, there is a place named Amethyst Harbor. The violet quartz is found there in ample quantities, though rarely in gemstone quality. The fame of Idar-Oberstein, the German gemstone centre, is based on domestic amethyst finds. In earlier times, raw material was delivered there from the Zillertal Alps. When these nearby deposits ceased to yield, the old cutters' tradition was able to be preserved thanks to supplies organised by German emigrés in South America. Russian amethysts, which were mainly mined in winter in the Urals, were once famous for their particularly beautiful colour, which shone magnificently even in artificial light. In Tibet there were amethyst rosaries, for there the gemstone was dedicated to Buddha and was said to promote clarity of mind. In Sri Lanka, stones which have rolled down on their own are found in debris.However, the amethyst is more likely to turn up in spaces lining agate almonds and druses in igneous rocks. What was presumed to be the largest-ever cavity was discovered in 1900 in Rio Grande do Sul. The almond measured ten by five by three metres (33 by 16 by 10 ft.) and weighed an estimated eight tonnes. The dark violet amethysts, some as large as a man's fist, may have weighed some 700 cwt. altogether. There is a piece weighing 200 kilogrammes, taken from this Brazilian treasure, in the Washington Museum. In recent times, a find in the USA has been making headlines. In July 1993, a three-metre druse was found in Maine, which contained well over 1000 kilogrammes of cuttable amethyst, some of it in crystals 19 cm in length.The South American deposits in particular, which were not discovered until the nineteenth century, brought down the price of the violet gemstone. The amethyst bracelet of Queen Charlotte of England, which was so famous at the beginning of the 18th century, its value being estimated at 2000 pounds sterling at that time, was apparently worth only 100 pounds 200 years later. However, the price has a close relationship with the quality, and the quality varies immensely. Most of the material from Brazil is light-coloured, a tender purple. In Madagascar, it is generally red or violet hues which are found. Uruguay supplies the most beautiful and the deepest colour, but it is mostly blemished. Thus immaculate stones of the finest violet still fetch carat prices of well over a hundred euros. Mounted with diamond braid trimming, as has been the custom for some 100 years, enchanting pieces of jewellery are thus created. No wonder that people find it worth going to the trouble of producing imitations and synthetics.

I love: Aline Kokinopoulos jewelry

I would like to introduce you Aline Kokinopoulos, a creative and very talented jeweler.
She also teachs jewelry technologies, and she's one of those jewelers who helped me to go far away in my jewelry practice. Thanks to her training courses, I was able to obtain my "Jewels and Jewelry Art" Vocational Training Qualification in 2008. That's why I would like to thank her and to present its very particular universe, between nature and architecture.
After an african childhood, Aline Kokinopoulos studied jewelry in the french Fontblanche workshops, with G. Jonemann as a teacher. Traveling abroad to gain more experiences with foreign jewelers, in 1992 she finally settled her studio in Marseille, finding in this mediterranean city a bridge between East and West.

She creates voluminous silver jewels, often decorated with gems or precious stones, and sometimes with other materials. Like her studio settled between city and countryside, her work has two main subjects: The invisible Cities and The imaginary Herbarium. Her jewels take us to a dreamed universe, visions from here and there, reminiscences of journey, images of imaginary cities, souvenirs of perfumed gardens...

Her rings of the series "The invisible Cities" are impressive buildings, lighthouses, towers and other domes inspired by faraway cultures, and which, in spite of their impressive size, remain pleasant to wear.

As to answer to these monumental architectures, Aline become a gardener and creates delicate floral jewels of silver and gold, with semiprecious stones, a real "Imaginary Herbarium" to be collected.

Where to buy ?

  • ENTREE LIBRE
    4, rue des Bains 06600 - ANTIBES - FRANCE
    Tel 00 33 493 34 83 51

  • LA CAMBUSE
    14, rue de la République -84480-BONNIEUX s/ LUBERON - FRANCE
    Tel 00 33 490 75 82 94

  • Boutiques des Ateliers d'Art de France
    22-26, avenue Niel -75017-PARIS
    Tel 00 33 148 88 06 58

  • In her studio in Marseille - FRANCE
    Tel: 00 33 4919 62712
    Mail: alinek67@yahoo.fr

  • Website: http://alinek.jimdo.com/

Jewelry size guide

To order the right size... take the good measurement!


How to know your ring size?
To know your finger size, clic on the picture above and print the pdf document (Scale of 100%: it means that for accurate ring-size results, you must make sure that you do not have “Shrink oversized pages to fit paper size” or “Expand small pages to paper size” selected in the Print dialog box.

Then, place a ring that fits you over the circle, making sure the inside of the ring lines up with the outside of the circle. If you are between sizes, order the larger size. For any custom-order in a specific size, please feel free to ask me by email.

Use this measurement and the chart to the right to determine your ring size.If you are between sizes, order the larger size...





Bracelets sizing guide

· If the description of the item indicates a length (for example 18 cm), the circumference of your wrist will have to be lower than this measure.

· If the description proposes several lengthes (for example from 17 to 21 cm), measure the circumference of your wrist with a flexible tape measure or a piece of string and a ruler. Take measurement as indicated on the drawing, by applying a finger against your wrist. Note the value by rounding off in 1/2 superior cm.

· For stiff bracelets which do not open such as bangles, indicated size represent the inner diameter of the bangle. I advise you, for the choice of the size of your bangle, to take into account not only the measurement of your wrist, but also the size of your hand. You will need a flexible tape measure or a piece of string and a ruler.

· Make your hand as small as possible, as if you were putting on bangles, bringing your thumb and little finger together.

· Using a tape measure (or string), measure the around your hand at the widest point (the tape measure should be pulled taught, not loose). Make note of the actual circumference of your hand (if you used string, make a mark where the string meets, then measure the length with your ruler to get your hand circumference).



· To calculate the diameter, divide the circumference by 3,14.



Necklaces

The picture to the left can be used to get an idea of which necklace lengths fall where. Most pendants come on chains of 40cm / 16 inches or 45cm / 18 inches but others are also available on request.

Gold and tanzanite pendant

Here is one of my last creation: a magnifiscient one-of a kind gold pendant, with a 1,11 carat tanzanite.
Tanzanite was first discovered in 1967 in Tanzania, East Africa. As one of the newest and most exotically colored gemstones, Tanzanite is part of the Zoisite mineral species and is only found in East Africa. Tanzanite is very rarely a pure blue and usually exhibits rich purple overtones. It is so beautiful that it is often mistaken for Kashmir Sapphire (itself now so rare).
TANZANITE'S STUNNING BEAUTY
Tanzanite is an incredibly beautiful gemstone that derives it's stunning appearance from it's remarkably strong Trichroic properties, that is it shows alternately three different colours, blue, violet and red depending on the angle from which it is viewed. However all Tanzanite that is cut for commercial purposes is heat treated thus tending to fix the colour bringing out the best. Generally the best quality and cut of Tanzanite is a deep intense violet bluish colour. A word of caution with regards to the use and care of Tanzanite, Tanzanite is quite fragile; it has hardness of 6.5 on the Moh scale. To put this in perspective, compare Tanzanite to Sapphire which has hardness of 9. For this reason, although it can be worn daily, be very gentle with this exotic gem. Care should be taken to protect it from knocks, pressure and extreme temperature changes. Never use ultrasonic cleaners to clean jewelry with Tanzanite.

TANZANITE - CREATED BY EARTH AND FIRE
The fact is that it is actually a form of Zoisite and in it's untreated form is a dull grayish brown in colour that in order to release it's almost unrivalled natural beauty is heated to 500 degrees Centigrade. The heat treatment needed is why it was never discovered until a lightning strike caused a bush fire that naturally heated the rough Zoisite bringing forth the amazing stone we know as Tanzanite much to the delight and amazement of the Massai tribesmen.


TANZANITE - HARDER AND HARDER TO FIND... The price of Tanzanite has obviously risen due to the ratio of supply and demand (and can only continue to do so) with high grades of Tanzanite selling for as much as US$1200 per carat. Like most other gems, when the carat weight of a tanzanite increases, its price per carat goes up. It is still possible however to buy top quality Tanzanite for around the US$700 mark in the smaller sizes such as 3 to 5 carat.
Tanzanite has been available in the world since the late 1960’s and has become one of the most coveted precious gems on the planet.

(source: http://www.tanzaniteauthority.com/)

New: now you can buy my jewels on Etsy!

I just open my Etsy shop, especially for US and International buyers. So, please come and visit me! http://www.akkenajewelry.etsy.com/

Calibus: the birth of a ring


Rolling metal
Preparation of the brass bar: I use a rolling mill to reduce the thickness of the metal. The metal must be annealed to restore it to a softened condition suited to continued rolling, otherwise it may split.

Sawing
To fabricate any object from the basic forms of metal (here a sheet), once the design concept is established, the metal must be cut to necessary dimensions with a jeweler's saw. Then I use a file for abrading, shapping and smoothing my piece of metal, and check the straightness of the edges.


Measuring
I use a vernier caliper to measure and control the dimensions of the metal sheet.

Soldering
The edges of the metal are joined to form a ring. Then I apply borax to the joint, and I place solder snippets on it. The whole work is heated with a soldering torche, till the complete fusion of the solder.



Forging
The work is placed in a pickle bath (acid dipping) to remove borax and dissolve surface oxide formed on metal during the soldering. Then I place the ring on a steel mandrel, to shape it and size it by pounding with a wood mallet.





Filing and grinding
I remove the excess solder on the outside and the inside by filing, and file the edges true. Then the ring is gradually grinded to obtain a smooth and sweet surface. I use various abrasive papers (from the coarsest to the finest grade), mounted on wooden sticks. To grind the inside of the ring, I insert a piece of emery paper into the slot of a miniature split mandrel, and wrap the paper around.



Granulation
I make the granules by heating and fusing small silver jump-rings on a charcoal block. The silver granules are positionned in the ring with borax and solder snippets, then they are soldered.


Finishing
I use a small round bur to engrave the metal with a decorative motif . Then the ring is lovingly polished. A last I remove soils with a sweet brush and cleaning liquid, and here it is!
My Calibus ring is now ready to meet her new owner...





Ready to go!
Last step: the photo!
Now beautiful and shiny, Calibus is ready to go to its new sweet home!




Thuesday Focus: my DaWanda favorite jeweler ShellyDaly



ShellyDaly is one of my favorite jewelery maker in DaWanda. That's why I couldn't miss the opportunity to focus on her work when DaWanda announced it's new competition for bloggers: *Post about your favorite product*

I love the way she uses satiny smooth beach stones, gently tumbled by the ocean on Cape Cod's White Crest beach, to make her jewels! An elegant way to wear a beach stone, and an ode to summer at the beach...
  • Her bio:
Shelly lives in Baltimore, Maryland near the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, where she collects beach stones to make her stunning and rare jewelry. In her past life, she was an interior designer. As a self-taught jeweler, she learnt step by step, enjoying to assemble her diverse materials. Now, she continues to learn new skills by reading and taking classes whenever time allows.

Her passion began very early: since she was a little girl, she's collected rocks and has been making things with them ever since along with epic messes, much to her family's dismay. They are fortunate right now to have the mess contained in one small room. It is her favorite place.
  • Her work:
Shelly enjoys handcrafting pieces she loves to wear. Simple and singular, each jewel of her "Cap Cod Stone" series offers a unique opportunity. She uses varied materials and includes heavy gauge bronze, sterling silver, steel and burnished brass. Currently in 2009, the merging of the color and the rocks is in process and she is very unclear about where this will all go....

As she's a DaWanda member since June, I warmly welcome her and wish her a good continuation!

My little studio


Last week I completely cleaned and re-organized my studio. I moved in a 3m² room, not very large but it's enough for me, and better than the living room! Thanks to my husband who kindly helped me to move the heavy workbenches and machines :) Now I feel comfortable to work in good conditions, with a cleared mind to create a lot of lovely stuff...

The secret meaning of Akkena ®

To all of you who wonder what is the real meaning of my brand " Akkena" , I'm going to confide the secret of its origins: Akkena is a Fang word, an ethnic group from central Africa, well-known for his art of statuary and his pure and serene white masks, which strongly marked artists as Picasso and Matisse. It is also the ethnic group of my husband. Akkena means "wedding ring", and in a wider sense "link", "blend", "combination". This word epitomizes the spirit which drives me when I create my jewels, combining contemporary design and traditional techniques, mixing influences from North and South, balancing warm and cold, matt and shine... strengh and harmony!